The information on this page is super important!   

Good Scissors are made from good steel and good workmanship. Good workmanship is evident in the looks, operation and efficiency of the scissors. Good Steel however, is in the recipe. Its made a certain way, with certain other metals and each recipe is for a different use. Steels generally good for scissors are melted & poured into casts, or softened & pounded into molds. This is done at pretty high temperatures and they are rapidly cooled to prevent the molten metals from re-uniting in clumps. To release tension in the molecules and harden the structural integrity of the steel, relatively gentle heating and cooling is done in a controlled setting. This is called Tempering. With a good recipe and good tempering, you now have good steel that will hold a good edge.  When buying scissors at this level, you pay a bit more for this steel because its better. That's fair.

Back at the shop you enjoy these shears and the quality makes your life that much easier. After a while a nice friendly sharpener, (not always nice nor friendly) stops by and offers his/her services and you hand them your good shears. Remember the hardness that came from good tempering and created a good edge? Well. the first thing the sharpener will do is grind the edges and create heat which destroys the tempering that took so long and was the reason that the shears worked so well and held an edge. The shear will no longer hold an edge, its now too soft. The edge wont cut as well, its now a bevel shear.  Its no longer smooth, they ground off the ride-line. One or two 'sharpenings' like this and the hollow at the back of the blades is no longer in the middle. You now send it back to the manufacturer and demand they fix it. You expect that they should, it has a warranty. But ......... you never read the warranty. They warranted their steel and workmanship. They cannot be expected to put back the steel that was ground away, or fix the tempering that the grinder destroyed. So everyone is now unhappy. You buy shears from another manufacturer and back at the shop you enjoy your nice new shears and the quality that makes your life much easier. After awhile a nice friendly shar........... Yup you've heard it before?

A good pair of shears will last you at least 10 years if cared for correctly. And that will save you money. But its a hassle to send them away for sharpening you say? And it costs more with postage?
We have a 12 hour turnaround on shears sent to us for sharpening. Return post is $6.50 for the first shear and $1.00 for each one afterwards.
Your shears will stay sharper, longer. They will work properly and save your hands, the steel will not disappear and the warranty will be in effect. Much better than sharpening them every couple of months, suffering ruined shears and buying every year?

Friend, its silly to let your hands suffer. Good scissors are designed to help make life easier. Now marry good sense with good business. You are letting someone destroy your custom made tool because he or she says so. Modern scissors are technically advanced and a reputable manufacturer will warrant their steel and their expertise for as long as you use them. Why not? They made them, they have the right equipment and expertise.

Sharpening is as important as the manufacturing of scissors. Good scissors have beneficial features and when sharpened & serviced, these features must be fine tuned and restored for perfect operation.

We now suggest that you take a break as this really needs concentration.     It's important stuff you know? :)

This is a scissors designed by an Orthopedic Surgeon. The handles, finger holes and shanks are especially designed for specific benefits to the hands, wrists and arms. With these specifics in mind, the factory guys who understand engineering, steels and machining, created physical benefits in the manufacturing that work with the physician's design. These benefits are in all TALYN Shears.

Now we operate. We will open up this beauty and show you how it works. (Or it doesn't & why.)

Notice the back of the blade is hollowed exactly in the middle of the blade. This prevents friction and besides ease of operation, does not bruise the hair which will cause split ends which frizz & flop.
If you grind the edge & take away steel, the hollow is no longer in the middle & you have to help it cut with wrist strength. (Not good for you:)

The "Ride Line" is marked running around the blade. This is where the one blade "rides" on the other. A good ride line gives smoothness and prevents the one blade cutting into the other.
Most sharpeners use a hone of sorts and rub away at this "ride line" to make it 'smoother.'

Talyn scissors all have a "step" where this ride line joins the handle. By raising this step very slightly, we make the blades push harder against each other and this helps the hand by letting the scissors do the work.
Now, we go a step further ...... and angle this step fractionally inwards so that when the blades close, they actually turn towards the cutting edge. This helps with double coats like the 'Bedlingtons' and fine coated dogs and people, so the hair doesn't slip through.

Remember the sharpener with the hone rubbing this "ride line" ?? Meant well, .... but took off the angled "ride line" at the "Step." Meant well, ....... but lessened the pressure at the step. Now the blades do not have the pressure to help you cut and they won't turn to catch the fine hairs. Two benefits gone, but I am sure they meant well, they were making the scissors smoother & just did not know.

We round the tips on the outside of the blades. This is to prevent you scratching yourself or the client. Most sharpeners spin them around against the wheel and create a smooth tip. Oops, they also smoothed the inside of the tips so they won't cut anymore.

Everyone knows the difference between a Beveled edged scissors and a convex edged one. One has a bevel & the other does not. Until a sharpener with a grinder makes them all beveled. If your going to "blunt cut" and you are a barber, no problem, that's the method used. (And its good) But .......If you want to slice through the hair and not see scissors lines, use less strength to cut and have a more enjoyable work day, well then you do not want a beveled scissors. Why would you stand for it when your convex scissors come back beveled?

Between the handles, in better scissors, is a rubber bumper. This stops the handles from banging together when you close the scissors and also positions the blades so that when closed, the edges do not stick out on either side and cut you. If you lose this bumper, be very careful as the blades will overlap and you could get a nasty cut. Especially if you wipe them.
Sometime due to excessive grinding of the blades, the tips will no longer meet. The easiest way to fix this is to grind away at the bumper which causes the blades to move towards each other. This would never have happened if the scissors had not been ground or grinded whatever the term is.:)

We work hard at delivering quality. We work with the steel, the design and the technical perfection of our scissors. We are not perfect and continue learning and improving. We issue a written warranty with every scissors that leaves us. this is for that "in Case" and we will take care of it. With all this, its hurts to see good scissors being damaged so that the benefits, that we so proudly install, can not be enjoyed even though they were paid for and enjoyed in the beginning. Scissors that should last for ten years reduced to toothpicks in less than a year.

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